While the methods may be very different, you might expect the end product — the actual heat — to be the same. But it turns out warmth comes in very different flavors too. Many people prefer the ambiance of radiated heat to the blow-dryer effect of forced-air systems. As you might imagine having hot air blowing through your house regularly can make for a downright arid environment.
Unless you're adding a humidifier to the home setup, forced air can cause dry skin and chapped lips. Radiators, on the other hand, use convection to heat the surrounding air. Rather than blowing warmth, it's literally radiated , resulting in a smoother, more subtle warmth. That's the biggest question facing most homeowners. Winters can be long, cruel, and expensive. So which system is cheaper to run over the long term?
Both a boiler and a furnace will use electricity or gas or both to get the job done. But because boilers have such a long, storied history, they're usually the systems that haven't benefited as much from modern efficiencies. Naturally, boilers installed decades ago, won't be nearly as efficient as a modern hot-air blowing furnace.
Radiators do, however, benefit from an ingenuous and durable concept — one that was blessed with a simple, efficient design from the start. In the end, the costs of running either setup likely hinge on how well-maintained they are — with radiators, due to their age, being the most likely to lag behind.
But as Terry Harris notes in DenGarden. The U. Department of Energy even gives an edge to radiant heating, especially when it comes to floors — for those lucky enough to have them — noting it's "usually more efficient than forced-air heating because it eliminates duct losses.
So if you happen to already own a house with radiant heating, you might want to think twice about how green the grass really grows on the forced-air heated side.
And maybe be kind to that grand old dame that's been warming bodies since long before you were born — with nary complaint, aside from the occasional groan. Actively scan device characteristics for identification. Use precise geolocation data. Select personalised content. Create a personalised content profile.
Measure ad performance. Select basic ads. Create a personalised ads profile. Select personalised ads. Apply market research to generate audience insights. Measure content performance. Develop and improve products. List of Partners vendors. By Christian Cotroneo. We have a cast-iron boiler radiator system throughout our home. Recently, we left for vacation, set the system on 50 degrees and came back to some burst radiators from freezing.
Where can we find them? Did you find replacement radiators that fit a decor? I think safety is really important. So I think that kind of thing is good to consider. I live in a colonial my upstairs is usually quite cool. When I turned my heat on last week, I was so happy to have flowing and feeling really hot! What is the knob on the radiator near the floor for? I have never touched it. I have a home full of radiators but the boiler is no longer in the home.
I would love to sell them if anyone out there would like to pick them up. Very cheap. Just would like more room in the house. A furnace has been installed. This guide is amazing as to figure out the solution for a problem long been in the homes—one room is extra hot than other rooms.
With this, one can install the right system according to the requirement and size of the room. Yes, I have seen cast-iron radiators installed in an old fireplace that has had the flue damper permanently sealed. You can also buy a special radiator that goes in the fire place and is hooked into the radiator hot water system.
Use this to refill your radiator system before you use it. If your boiler is running but the radiators are cool, you probably need to top off the water. There should be a water libel gauge somewhere near the boiler to indicate that you have it filled correctly.
I am new to this style heat. I recently moved into a home attached to a commercial building. My heat is all baseboard heaters thru out the perimeter of the home. It then connects to an attached garage. As far as I can tell there are no separate devices to control room by room. I would like to lower the temp in the master bedroom for sleeping. Is there someway of doing this? Could I cover the covers with blankets or towels or would that cause a fire hazard?
Any advice would help. Yes, that valve is what regulates flow of water and gets water upstairs from boiler. Turn it right to shut it completely off and left to open it all the way. Keep turning left till you cannot turn it left anymore. And vice versa This is open all the way. Anything in between is partial. Like your sink per say. Hope this helps. One leading directly up from kitchen to upstairs bedroom will cool or heat bedroom, etc.
My apt is same way. Neighbor below freezes me often by closing HER valves! OH My bedroom remains 64 or 66 Deg when 32 Deg outside. Hope this helps you! Question: is it safe to run an old gas boiler when the ball and grosset circulator pump is not working. The boiler is in the basement, the radiator on the third floor is boiling hot, second floor radiators are warmish, first floor radiators are barely warm Thanks!!! The reason that radiators can get very hot on lower floors, but not that warm on upper floors is because of the build up of air inside the upper floor radiators that needs to be bled out.
This trapped air takes up space and prevents the hot water from circulating properly only lower parts of radiator will be hot and transferring its heat to the radiator metal which then would heat the room.
To bleed out the air, first let the furnace run for around an hour until everything is as hot as possible. Then starting with the highest floors, look for a knob near the highest point of the radiator and carefully turn it to open. On some older radiators the knob many have broken off so you will need to use pliers or a wrench to get it open. After opening it you should either hear a hissing sound or water will come out. If water comes out, then there is no air to bleed so just close the valve.
If you hear a hissing sound, look to see if the air is being expelled usually , or getting sucked in usually when radiators are still too cold. If air is getting sucked in, close valve and wait for radiator to get warmer because keeping it open will just make problem worse.
Sometimes air will start coming out, then slow down and stop, and then reverse and start going back in. If this happens, then just close valve when air stops coming out. After air stops coming out, or you see water, close valve firmly and move on to the next radiator.
Both of these effects can cause the radiator to tilt, preventing water from properly draining from the radiator when it cools. This will cause banging noises when the radiator is heating up.
Shims should be inserted under radiators to pitch them slightly toward the pipe in a one-pipe system or toward the steam trap in a two-pipe system. In two-pipe systems, older steam traps often stick in either the open or closed position, causing unbalance in the distribution system. If you seem to have problems with some radiators providing too much heat and others providing too little, this might be the cause. The best approach is often to simply replace all the steam traps in the system.
Steam radiators located on exterior walls can cause heat loss by radiating heat through the wall to the outdoors. To prevent such heat loss, you can install heat reflectors behind these radiators. The reflector should face away from the wall and should be the same size or slightly larger than the radiator.
Periodically clean the reflectors to maintain maximum heat reflection. Hot-water radiators are one of the most common heat distribution systems in newer homes, second only to forced-air systems. They are typically a baseboard-type radiator or an upright design that resembles steam radiators. The most common problem in hot-water systems is unwanted air in the system.
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